Bangkok Travel Guide

Chaotic, carnal and congested, Thailand’s capital is divided by the Chao Phraya River and is nestled in one of the world’s most fertile rice-producing deltas. Bangkok’s 579 square miles (1,500 sq km) are criss-crossed by a series of canals carrying passengers and cargo, its roads clotted with endless traffic jams, while the city sprawls in all directions with a hodge-podge of urban, commercial and industrial buildings. A new overland metropolitan railway speeds above the city, providing visitors with a relaxed and efficient way to observe the hustle and bustle below.

Despite its pollution and overcrowding, Bangkok is undoubtedly one of Asia’s most exciting cities, and one of the world’s largest, promising to reveal to each traveller the wild and untamed mysteries of the east. On the banks of the Chao Phraya visitors will find the Grand Palace as well as Wat Phra Kaeo, the palace temple housing the Emerald Buddha, constructed entirely from translucent green jade. Slightly upriver are the exquisitely ornamented Royal Barges, still used today for special floating processions.

Of the 30 or so temples in Bangkok, the largest is the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, which houses an impressive statue of the deity. The famous Floating Market is a delight to visitors and well worth a visit. As the sun lurches towards the horizon in the west and the sweat cools, this city of royalty and religion comes alive with a palpable decadence. Music and dazzling neon advertise a miasma of trendy bars and nightclubs, as well as the notorious ’girlie joints’ that have ensured the Patpong district its reputation for hedonism.

Getting Around

Bangkok is notorious for the huge volume of traffic and traffic jams, but this has eased slightly over the years with the introduction of the elevated monorail, the Skytrain, which currently has two lines running above Bangkok’s central areas and provides a much quicker and easier alternative to the bus. The city’s first subway is also in progress. The extensive bus system has always been the main form of public transport and they are the cheapest, most frequent mode of travel around the city (Bt3.50 to most destinations), but should be used with care because of pickpockets and bag slashers taking advantage of the squash. The easiest, fastest and most interesting way to get around is on the waterways of the Chao Phraya River where numerous river taxis, long-tail boats and large waterbuses make most tourist sites easily reachable for about Bt10. Tuk tuks (colourful three-wheelers) are the standard way of making short journeys, and are cheaper and quicker than regular taxis, but fares should be negotiated before boarding. Metered and un-metered taxis are air-conditioned, but be aware that drivers don’t carry much change. Any taxi or tuk tuk can be hired for a day’s tour of the sights (Bt500-800). If in a desperate rush during gridlock, motorcycle taxis can be hired, which are cheaper and faster, but passengers will need nerves of steel and they should only be used for short distances. They can be recognised by the colourful, numbered vests worn by drivers.

Attractions

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market:

The Damnoen Saduak Floating Market is an escape from the Western-style shopping malls of Bangkok and a glimpse into the past, revealing the centuries’ old way of life of the residents whose stilt-houses perch on the canals. Visitors can explore the market with boat trips and sample the wares of local farmers as they do so. They can also enjoy the experience of floating through one of Thailand’s many river villages.

  Transport: Bus 78 from Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal to Damnoen Saduak Bus Terminal Opening Time: Daily 6am to 11am Admission: Free

Jim Thompson’s House:

American silk entrepreneur Jim Thompson deserves most of the credit for the current popularity of Thai silk around the world. His fame increased when, in 1967, Thompson disappeared in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia under mysterious circumstances. He has never been heard of since. The house itself is an excellent example of Thai residential architecture, and inside is a display of his Oriental art and antique collection, as well as an array of his personal belongings.

 Address: Soi Kasem San 2, opposite the National Stadium on Rama 1 Road Telephone: (0)2 216 7368 Website: www.jimthompsonhouse.com Opening Time: Daily 9am to 5pm (last tour leaves at 4.30pm) Admission: Bt100 (proceeds to Bangkok’s School for the Blind)

Kanchanaburi:

Eighty miles (130km) west of Bangkok, the town of Kanchanaburi has secured its position of infamy as the original site of the Bridge Over The River Kwai, where during World War II Allied prisoners of war were used by the Japanese to build the Death Railway and thousands died at the hands of their captors. With its modern hotels and welcoming air, Kanchanaburi seems an unlikely setting, but the bridge is still in use and the graves of the Allied soldiers are testament to the town’s unfortunate past. Worth a visit is the JEATH (Japan, England, Australia/America, Thailand and Holland) War Museum in Kanchanaburi, which recounts experiences in the Japanese POW camps during the War. The Sai Yok Yai Waterfall in the Sai Yok National Park is a place of idyllic beauty and makes a good excursion from Kanchanaburi; the falls are widely celebrated in Thai poetry and songs.

 

Royal Barges National Museum:

The Royal Barges National Museum houses several decorative royal barges, the earliest of which dates back to 1357. Most of the barges served as War Vessels at one point, and were subsequently used on royal or state occasions on the Chao Phraya River. Due to their age the barges are now rarely used, but their intricate designs reflecting Thai religious beliefs and local history are of great importance to the country’s heritage. The barges were last used at the end of 1999 to celebrate the king’s 72nd birthday.

 Address: Arun Amarin Road, Bangkok Noi Postcode: 10700 Website: www.thailandmuseum.com Opening Time: Daily 9am to 5pm Admission: Bt30

Royal Grand Palace:

Construction of the palace began in 1782 and was completed in time for the coronation of King Rama I, and opened in 1785 to signify the end of the Burmese invasion of Thailand. The palace itself is made up of a complex array of smaller buildings, most notably the Wat Mahatat (the Palace Temple) and the Wat Phra Keow (the Royal Chapel), which houses the famous Emerald Buddha sculpted from a single piece of jade, and one of the most revered objects in the Kingdom.

 Address: Na Phralan Road, Phra Nakhon Postcode: 10200 Website: www.palaces.thai.net Opening Time: Daily 8.30am to 3.30pm Admission: Bt200 (adults); children free

The Temple of the Reclining Buddha (Wat Pho):

Situated adjacent to the Royal Grand Palace, Wat Pho is Bangkok’s oldest, largest and most famous temple. The grounds of Wat Pho contain over 1,000 statues of Buddha, and the temple houses one of Thailand’s most spectacular sights, the Reclining Buddha - a 157ft (48m) long and 49ft (15m) high statue that is gold-plated and inlaid with Mother-of-Pearl on the soles of its feet. In the 19th century King Rama III turned Wat Pho into a centre of learning and visitors today can still have a massage and learn about the ancient art of Thai Medicine.

 Address: 2 Sanamchai Road Postcode: 10700 Telephone: (0)2 222 5910, (0)2 226 2942 Opening Time: Daily 8am to 5pm Admission: Bt20

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