Milan Travel Guide

Sophistication reaches new levels in Milan. The financial and commercial centre of Italy attracts fashion fundis, opera lovers, the young, the beautiful and the bold. Shopping, eating and clubbing is serious business here and it is no surprise that the city boasts the world’s most beautiful shopping mall, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Equally vying for admiration are the Milanese icons of La Scala Theatre (Teatro della Scala) and the Gothic Duomo, one of the world’s largest churches. Milan’s frenetic pace surges ahead in its drive towards progress, forsaking the lengthy siestas enjoyed in other parts of the country. The city’s urban tentacles stretch for miles, although the significant historical attractions are contained between the two landmark sites - the Duomo and the Sforzesco Castle. These reside within the inner loop of the city’s concentric design, which is split into four squares: Piazza Duomo, Piazza Cairoli, Piazza Cordusio and Piazza san Babila. The modern civic centre lies to the northwest, around Mussolini’s colossal train station built in 1931. The area around here is dominated by a skyline of skyscrapers from which the sleek Pirelli Tower emerges. The Fiera district that stretches around Porta Genova station is the nub for trade and fashion fairs.

Getting Around

Milan has an extremely efficient and well-established public transport system, covering nearly 870 miles (1,400km), which is fortunate because the city’s roads are congested and local drivers frighteningly reckless. The Azienda Trasporti Milanesi operates the metro, bus, tram and trolley services, which have the advantage of being integrated. Tickets, which can be bought from tobacconists, coffee bars and vending machines throughout the city, are validated on board and then have a time limit of 75 minutes travel on any of the transport options. Day passes are also available. The city’s metro is particularly efficient, inexpensive and user-friendly with three lines. Linea 1, the red line, covers the most important tourist area near the Duomo. Taxis are freely available but require to be hired at marked stands. Expect extra charges for luggage, late-night or Sunday travel.

Attractions

Cinque Terre:

Cinque Terre means ‘Five Lands’. These are the five related fishing villages that nestle precariously on the cliffs overlooking the azure ocean of the Italian Riviera, off the country’s northwestern coast. It is a picture postcard dream of sparkling clear waters and dramatic vistas contained within the tranquil embrace of the villages that are connected to one another by a scenic pathway that curves through the hillside among olive groves and vineyards. Monterosso is the largest of the towns and is recognisable through the huge statues carved into the rocks facing its shores. The village of Riomaggiore is quickly identified through the myriad fishing boats festooning its shores and is linked by the ‘lovers lane’ to the charming town of Manarola. Corniglia perches precariously onto the mountainside and is accessed through a steep climb and Vernazza’s promenade and piazza have beautiful sea vistas.

 

Duomo (Cathedral):

The looming Duomo, the world’s largest Gothic cathedral, presides over the Piazza that bears its name. Its construction began in 1386 and continued sporadically until Napoleon ordered its completion in 1809. Its lengthy creation bestowed on it 3,400 statues, 135 spires and 96 gargoyles. It is best visited in full sunshine when the interior is illuminated by the colourful mosaic of its stained glass windows. The church is a five-aisled cruciform seating 40,000 worshippers. The 16th-century marble tomb of Giacomo de Medici lies in the south transept and lying buried at its heart is St Charles Borromeo, the cathedral’s most important benefactor. Every year in May and September a nail from the cross of Christ is displayed to worshippers and is retrieved from its resting place by the bishop who is hoisted to the nivola to reach it. Across the piazza in the Palazzo Reale is the Museo del Duomo that displays the treasures from the cathedral. It also houses the Museo d’Arte Contomporanea, showcasing a collection of Italian Futurist art.

 Address: Piazza del Duomo 18 Telephone: (02) 7202 2656 Opening Time: Daily 7am to 7pm. The dome is open from 9am daily, closing between 5pm and 6.30pm depending on the season. Treasury: Monday to Friday 9.30am to 1pm and 2pm to 6pm (Saturday until 5pm), Sunday 1.30pm to 4pm Admission: Free (Cathedral); €1 (Treasury); €6 (terrace by lifts); €4 (terrace by stairs); admission including the museum is €8

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II:

This four-storey, glass-domed arcade is entered from the Piazza in front of the Cathedral and extends to the Piazza della Scala. It was originally built as a link to the opera house but has become a fashionable place to hang out, sip coffee or camparis, or take a stroll through its many exclusive shops. Milanese gather in this conservatory to escape the winter rains or to socialise after a busy working day.

 Address: Piazza del Duomo

Leonardo da Vinci National Science & Technology Museum:

Within the Leonardo Gallery of the museum is a collection of Leonardo’s ingenious designs from war machines to architectural visions. Applied physics is the focus of another room in keeping with the museum’s tribute to the history of science.

 Address: Via San Vittore 21 Telephone: (02) 485 551 Email: museo@museoscienza.org Website: www.museoscienza.org Transport: Underground to St Ambrogio, or bus 50, 54, 58 or 94 Opening Time: Tuesday to Friday 9.30am to 5pm and Saturday to Sunday 9.30am to 6.30pm Admission: €7 (adults), concessions €5

Museo Poldi-Pezzoli:

The museum contains a spectacular private collection that was bequeathed by Poldi Pezzoli to the city in 1879. Numerous masterpieces hang from the walls of the Golden Room with its vista onto a picturesque garden. Antonio Pollaiolo’s Portrait of a Lady has become the symbol for Milan’s own style and elegance and depicts the profile of an elegant woman. Other famous paintings include a Virgin and Child by Andrea Mantegna, Bellini’s Ecco Homo, Piero della Francesca’s St Nicholas and Guardi’s Gray Lagoon.

 Address: Via Manzoni 12 Telephone: (02) 794 889 Email: info@museopoldipezzoli.org Website: www.museopoldipezzoli.it Transport: Subway to Duomo, Cordusio, S. Babila or Montenapoleone; bus 94 or 61; tram 1 or 2 Opening Time: Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 6pm Admission: €7, concessions €5

Museum of Historic Art of the Sforzesco Castle:

The gargantuan Sforzesco Castle built in the 15th century is one of Milan’s foremost monuments. It was restored after being bombed in 1943. The vast interior, which is broken here and there by smaller courtyards, contains three museums, the most notable of which is Museum of Historic Art (Museo d’Arte Antica del Castello Sforzesco). Within its collection of sculptures is the famous Pieta Rondanini, Michelangelo’s final work. The picture gallery features paintings by Mantegna, Bellini, da Vinci and Fra Filippo Lippi. The two other museums within the Castle’s ramparts are the Museum of Applied Arts and the Archaeological Museum.

 Address: Piazza Castello Telephone: (02) 8846 3703 Website: www.milanocastello.it Opening Time: Castle: Tuesday to Sunday 9.30am to 5.30pm. Museums are closed on Mondays Admission: Castle: free. Museums: €3

Portofino:

Nestled in a sheltered inlet within the stretch of the Italian Mediterranean is the coastal village of Portofino. It has long been the playground for the rich and famous, attracting the likes of Humphrey Bogart, Sophia Loren, Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor and Princess Grace. It is not surprising therefore that its exclusivity and prices rose to match its holidaymakers. The scenic surrounds can be explored from the outlying nature reserve graced with cypress and olive slopes. Set off from here on a 90-minute trek to San Fruttuoso or a 2½-hour hike to Santa Margherita. Other sights around Portofino include its castle and the lighthouse (faro) with its breathtaking view of the coastline.

  Telephone: (0185) 269 024 (tourist office)

Santa Maria delle Grazie:

Located next to the church in the former monastery’s refectory is Leonardo da Vinci’s famous painting, The Last Supper (Cenacolo Vinciano). The fresco depicts the moment of Christ’s revelation of the betrayal. Judas hovers to the right of the painting with his hand placed protectively on the bag of silver. Scaffolding covers the bottom of the painting (an ongoing restoration project), leaving the rest in full view. Controversy has erupted over the removal of layers of corrective over-painting completed in the 18th and 19th centuries. The painting has endured more than hot debate however as it escaped the bombing during WWII that destroyed the roof of the refectory.

 Address: Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2, Corso Magenta Telephone: (02) 8942 1146 Opening Time: Tuesday to Sunday 8.15am to 6pm. Visits are limited to 15 minutes, in groups of 20. Booking is essential and reservations are only accepted 60 days prior to visit Admission: €8, or €11.25 including a tour

The Gallery of Modern Art:

The Gallery of Modern Art (Civica Galleria d’Arte Moderna) is housed in the building, which once served at Napoleon’s summer palace and was occupied by the famous statesman and Josephine between 1805 and 1814. It is now recognised for its collection of modern art with works by Picasso, Matisse, Renoir, Gaugin and Cézanne.

 Address: Villa Reale, Via Palestro 16 Telephone: (02) 7600 2819 Opening Time: Tuesday to Sunday 9.30am to 5.30pm Admission: Free

Theatre Museum at La Scala (Museo Teatrale alla Scala):

This world famous opera house rests on the site of the Church of Santa Maria alla Scala, its namesake. The Museum provides a wealth of mementos from the opera house dedicated to the nation’s beloved composers and performers. These include Rossini, Puccini and Toscanini. Two halls are devoted to Verdi alone and contain memorabilia such as the spinet on which he learnt to play, hand-written scores and the baton given to him after the momentous reception of Aida.

 Address: Largo Ghiringhelli 1, Piazza della Scala. The Theatre Museum will be housed in the Palazzo Busca, 71 Corso Magenta overlooking Piazza di Santa Maria delle Grazie, during renovations Telephone: (02) 8879 2473 Website: www.lascala.milano.it Transport: Bus 61, tram 1 or 2, or subway to Duomo or Montenapoleone Opening Time: Daily 9am to 12.30pm and 1.30pm to 5.30pm Admission: €5

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