Some of Cyprus’ best coastal spots can get a little, how should we say, busy at times. Paphos, Limassol and Ayia Napa, we’re looking at you. But there is one part of the island that has, at least up to now, avoided the clutches of the developers and stayed off most tourists’ radars.
The Karpass Peninsula (Karpaz), nicknamed the “pan-handle” by the British for its shape and position relative to the rest of Cyprus, stretches out into the Mediterranean from the north-eastern corner of the island. It sits within the Turkish-controlled sector, but can be visited from the Greek-controlled South via designated border crossings. On this front we’ve heard of some strange restrictions at some borders, so consider going through Nicosia if you have the time.
The northern and southern shores of Karpass boast some fantastic sandy beaches – though we prefer the latter since they’re free of the shipping-related trash that blights the former. Don’t miss Golden Beach if you’re looking for a wild, pristine and virtually deserted beach. Though word is, quite a few locals head here on Sundays. Some people refer to it as “Turtle Beach” for all the Loggerhead and Leatherback Turtles that nest along it.
Away from the beaches, the peninsula is a mix of agricultural lands, rolling hills roamed by wild donkeys, small historic villages and ancient religious and Roman sites.
Many of the villages are unique in this sector of the island for the large number of Greek Cypriots living in them. During the invasion of 1974, many of the residents were cut off from the south of the island and were never able to flee there.
Of the historical sites, the Apostolos Andreas monastery is the stand out. Located at the farthest tip of the peninsula, the crumbling ruin is currently awaiting a UN- and EU-funded restoration. Though our advice would be to see it soon – with complex Cypriot politics at play, the project is far from guaranteed.
Hire a car and venture across the peninsula and you’ll be astounded how quiet it is. Forget about traffic jams – you’ll probably be able to keep count of the number of cars you see on any given day. We say hire a car because public transport is, for all intents and purposes, non-existent here. Oh, and be sure to fill up your tank, as the last petrol station is in Yialousa (Yenierenkoy), about half-way along the peninsula just off the north coast.
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