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Rude, brash, unforgiving yet undeniably irresistible: this is Delhi; India's second largest city and home to more than 14 million people. At first glance the city overwhelms visitors stepping off their Delhi flights, leaving them with a sense of sheer dubiety. But after a couple of hours its hard exterior gives way to an intriguing, slightly vulnerable place begging to be discovered over and over again.
Delhi’s history, like most of India’s, is a fascinating and mysterious one. Featured in the famous Sanskrit epic Mahabharata as the fabled city of Indraprastha Delhi had seen the rise and fall of empires before the British declared it India’s capital. And the remnants of its past provide a wonderful backdrop – one that juxtaposes old and new to create a city so visually unbelievable and booking a flight to Delhi is only the beginning of the adventure.
A typical day in Delhi would begin early before the streets are so crowded that even if you’re getting around by foot you’ll encounter traffic. The city is packed with more than a thousand historic monuments and hidden street bazaars that will have you meandering through its backroads for hours.
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Delhi's climate is monsoon tropical. October through the end of February is cooler, with daytime temperatures ranging from the low-20s through the mid-20s (Celsius). By the end of April it is hot, and the temperatures in May and June can go above 43C. It then gets a bit cooler but with high humidity, and the monsoon rains start in June and go until September.
Peak Season:
The peak tourist season for flights to Delhi is mid-September through March, and October to February are considered the best months to visit.
Off Season:
The Delhi summer can be blisteringly hot; temperatures can hit 47 degrees. Monsoon rains start in July and continue until August.
Stick to a car in Delhi if you want to avoid getting run over. Traffic is hectic, drivers have little patience with pedestrians and the few pavements that exist are poorly maintained and crowded. Avoid travelling in rush hour like the plague. Old Delhi has winding, narrow streets that could be considered walkable, but beware of handcarts and people with heavy loads. They stop for no one.
Your best bet for getting around is by taxi or by hiring a car and driver. If you’re hailing a cab, always negotiate your fare before you board. You can ask to see the fare chart that drivers carry with them. It’s also a good idea to carry some change, since most drivers don’t carry any with them. If you’d rather hire a car and driver, check with a travel agency.
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Prem Kishore and Anuradha KishoreSimple yet accurate telling of over 5000 years of India’s history.
William DalrympleA fellow traveler chronicles present day Delhi while looking back through its history.
Mahatma Gandhi, ed. Louis FischerAn anthology of Gandhi’s writings that reveals his journey and transformation to self discovery and living simply.
Ahmed AliDeemed a classic, the novel is set in Delhi just after the War of Independence (1857) and tells the story of the life and times of an Muslim family in the now nonexistent old Delhi.
Vikram SethThe stories of four families linked by marriage set in 1950s India against the enormity of the subcontinent, its overpowering heat, lush gardens, colorful festivals, exotic foods, and memorable characters.
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