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Travellers booking flights to Ho Chi Minh City are sometimes taken aback once they land. Ho Chi Minh City, often called HCMC, is bustling and buzzing and sometimes feels as if it is bursting at the seams. The city centre is filled with street vendors, cafés and family-owned souvenir shops all eager to make a living and stay afloat. But stay alert while you’re wandering between them or you'll wind up flat on the street: Ho Chi Minh City's chaos is fuelled by three million motorbikes that run the streets on a daily basis.
Located on the Saigon River, Ho Chi Minh City is home to more than eight million people and is Vietnam's commercial and industrial centre. Known as Saigon until 1970, its old name is still frequently used by tourists and the Vietnamese. The city has a turbulent past, and evidence of its many periods can be seen in the architecture: a mixture of French-colonialism, pagodas and temples and Communist-style concrete blocks. The city is much younger than the venerable Hanoi, only growing to a significant size in the 17th century. It is an expansion that carries on today; the erection of modern blocks and skyscrapers constantly takes place throughout the city, adding to the general noise, chaos and sense of movement.
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Peak Season:Reservations for Tet, the lunar New Year, must be made far in advance. Most businesses close for the holiday, including museums and shops. The holiday lasts for a week and falls between January 19 and February 20.
The dry season is the best time to visit, December through March. The crowds start arriving in November and stay until April.
Off Season:The wet season is humid and hot, but the showers tend to be short. Late autumn is a particularly nice time to visit southern Vietnam.
The end of the high season, March to April, can also be somewhat less crowded.
Minibuses and metered taxis are available for transport to the city centre. Make sure the driver is wearing an official name badge and that the meter is on. Most hotels can arrange transport for arriving passengers, but visitors should organise this in advance.
Ho Chi Minh City is reputed as having the planet’s most chaotic traffic. If you want to join in, bikes and mopeds are easy to rent. Motorcycles are also easily rented.
Another option is to hail a motorcycle taxi and negotiate an hourly rate. For a shorter trip, flag down a cyclo (pedicab) and agree on a fare before boarding. Many cyclo drivers speak English and, for a fee, can be tour guides. You can ask a driver to wait for you at a sight and to take you around the next day.
For something less hair-raising, take a taxi. Most taxis have meters; make sure it is running or negotiate a fare. You can also arrange for a car and driver for the day through a tour operator. For a change of pace, hire a boat and view the sights from the river.
Tan Son Nhat International Airport (SGN)
The airport is situated 7km (four miles) from Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).
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Kien NguyenThe author was “unwanted” in Saigon after the city fell to the Viet Cong in 1975 as he was Amerasian – half American, half Vietnamese. This is the story of his childhood.
Neil SheehanA look at the effects of the war on the two major cities of Vietnam.
Anastasia EdwardsThe story of the city, and its evolution from a small village in the middle of a forest to the bustling metropolis it is today.
Graham ReillyDanny Canyon comes from Glasgow’s East End, but finds himself in the bar trade in Saigon, caught up with Vietnamese mafia…
Edited by John Balaban and Nguyen Qui DucA collection of stories from Vietnamese authors.
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