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Located in the south of Poland, Krakow is the country's former royal capital and spiritual heart, a centre for science, learning and religion. Unlike Warsaw, Krakow emerged from WWII largely unscathed - it was the HQ of the German governor - and its Old Town is studded with Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance buildings.
The main market square (Rynek Glowny) is one of the finest medieval squares in Europe. Among the sights are St. Mary's Basilica, with its 40ft-high wood-carved polyptych, opened at noon each day; the Cloth Hall; and, of course, Wawel Hill.
Wawel Hill is home to the cathedral where many Polish monarchs are buried, the castle, the Big Ben-sized Zygmunt Bell, and, legend has it, resident dragon, whose den can be visited.
While Krakow may have escaped Warsaw's bombings, the war exacted a heavy toll. Auschwitz camp in Oswiecim is about an hour's drive from Krakow and can be visited; it's a sobering sight. Meanwhile, in the city, Kazimierz, the Old Jewish district, has been revived as a Bohemian quarter.
Flights to Krakow land at John Paul II International, named after Karol Wojtyla, who was archbishop of the city before he was elected pope.
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Peak Season:Peak season is April to October, and it is a good idea to book Krakow flights ahead. The city has events throughout the year, and July is a month of festivals, from street theatre to jazz.
Off Season:The cold winters typically mean fewer tourists, but there is still plenty to do.
City bus services 208 and 192 travel to the city centre, taking about 35 minutes. Taxis are also available outside the arrivals hall.
The Old Town is compact, mostly closed to traffic, and easy to negotiate. Best explored on foot, many of Krakow’s attractions are within walking distance of each other. When venturing outside the city centre, buses and trams can get you around easily.
Krakow’s buses and trams are the easiest way to travel in the city although they are crowded during rush hour. Buses and trams run between 5am and 11pm, with night buses running later. You can buy tickets at kiosks, ticket machines, and on the bus or tram.
Taxis are readily available, and fares at night are higher. Radio taxis (look for a taxi sign and the phone number of the company) usually have the best rates.
With limited parking, much of the Old Town closed to traffic, and a good system of buses and trams, there is little need for a car. If you are driving into the city, leave the car in a guarded car park. There are a couple in the city and some in the surrounding areas.
Krakow-Balice John Paul II International Airport (KRK) (website: www.lotnisko-balice.pl). The airport is situated 16km (10 miles) west of Krakow.
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Adam ZagajewskiZagajewski’s memoir about growing up in Poland in the 1960s and 1970s.
Zdzislaw ZygulskiExcellent history of Poland’s main city, with more than 50 illustrations and photographs.
Czeslaw MiloszMilosz is probably Krakow – and Poland’s – most famous author. The poet, essayist and translator died in 2004. This recently published collection of his poems is an excellent introduction to his work.
Edward StourtonJohn Paul II was born in Krakow and is revered throughout the city and Poland. This book attempts to look at all views of Karol Wojtyla, the man who was to become one of the best-loved Popes.
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