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Located in the south of Poland, Krakow is the country's former royal capital and spiritual heart, a centre for science, learning and religion. Unlike Warsaw, Krakow emerged from WWII largely unscathed - it was the HQ of the German governor - and its Old Town is studded with Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance buildings.
The main market square (Rynek Glowny) is one of the finest medieval squares in Europe. Among the sights are St. Mary's Basilica, with its 40ft-high wood-carved polyptych, opened at noon each day; the Cloth Hall; and, of course, Wawel Hill.
Wawel Hill is home to the cathedral where many Polish monarchs are buried, the castle, the Big Ben-sized Zygmunt Bell, and, legend has it, resident dragon, whose den can be visited.
While Krakow may have escaped Warsaw's bombings, the war exacted a heavy toll. Auschwitz camp in Oswiecim is about an hour's drive from Krakow and can be visited; it's a sobering sight. Meanwhile, in the city, Kazimierz, the Old Jewish district, has been revived as a Bohemian quarter.
Flights to Krakow land at John Paul II International, named after Karol Wojtyla, who was archbishop of the city before he was elected pope.
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Krakow has four distinct seasons. Spring is bright and mild, and May temperatures are in the mid-teens (Celsius). Summer is warm with occasional heat waves and the most rainfall. June through August temperatures are typically in the 20s. Autumn days start out foggy but warm up in the afternoon - the foliage is beautiful at this time. Winter brings lots of snow and temperatures usually below freezing.
Peak Season:
Peak season is April to October, and it is a good idea to book Krakow flights ahead. The city has events throughout the year, and July is a month of festivals, from street theatre to jazz.
Off Season:
The cold winters typically mean fewer tourists, but there is still plenty to do.
If you want to take a taxi from the airport after your flight to Krakow lands, save some money by phoning and reserving a cab ahead of time. If you forget, you can still catch one at the arrivals gate. Public transport is cheap and efficient. Trams and buses go all the way to the outskirts of city without draining your wallet. Don’t forget to validate your ticket by punching it at the orange validation boxes. Plain-clothed metro officials are known to charge hefty fines for un-validated tickets.
Krakow-Balice John Paul II International Airport (KRK) (website: www.lotnisko-balice.pl). The airport is situated 16km (10 miles) west of Krakow.
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Adam ZagajewskiZagajewski’s memoir about growing up in Poland in the 1960s and 1970s.
Zdzislaw ZygulskiExcellent history of Poland’s main city, with more than 50 illustrations and photographs.
Czeslaw MiloszMilosz is probably Krakow – and Poland’s – most famous author. The poet, essayist and translator died in 2004. This recently published collection of his poems is an excellent introduction to his work.
Edward StourtonJohn Paul II was born in Krakow and is revered throughout the city and Poland. This book attempts to look at all views of Karol Wojtyla, the man who was to become one of the best-loved Popes.
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