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There is a Yellow Brick Road in Sofia. Really. The bricks were a wedding gift to a Bulgarian Tsar from an Austro-Hungarian Emperor and they line a road that runs through the administrative centre of the Bulgarian capital, near most of the tourist landmarks.
One of the most important landmarks is the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. This enormous neo-Byzantine church (it is one of the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals in the world), all green and gold domes, was built in memory of the Russian soldiers who died wresting Bulgaria from Ottoman rule in 1878.
Between Turkish and Russian influences (Bulgaria was a contented Soviet state for 50 years) and a dash of European Union "connectedness" (since 2007), Sofia is a fascinating place to visit.
At about 7,000 years old, it is one of the oldest cities in Europe. Long before there were cheap flights to Sofia, the Thracians, Greeks, Romans, Macedonians and Turks all flocked there for its life-giving mineral springs - there are seven independent springs in the city. It's no exaggeration to say that this stylish city is one of the jewels of Eastern Europe.
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Peak Season:Sofia is busy in summer and winter, mostly with visitors on their way to the Black Sea resorts or hiking trails in summer and the ski slopes in winter. In June the city hosts the popular Sofia Music Week and cheap flights to Sofia may be harder to come by.
A party town, the nightlife is exuberant around the clock and year-round. The clubs also host varied and eclectic performances from traditional Bulgarian music to punk, reggae, and metal.
Off Season:Winter is when you are less likely to find tourists lingering in the city, but if you do not mind the cold and snow, Sofia has a wealth of museums, galleries, and cultural entertainment.
Regular bus service 84 runs on a frequent schedule day and night from the bus station close to Arrivals. Taxis are available, and passengers are advised to use O.K. Supertrans taxis from outside the arrivals hall; its enquiries desk is located inside the arrivals hall. Most hotels and tourist resorts run their own airport shuttles.
Sofia has an extensive public transport system with buses, trolleys, and trams going nearly everywhere in the city from early morning to late evening. Fares are inexpensive and tickets are purchased from street kiosks and sometimes from the drivers. There are discounted one-day and multiple-day tickets, which are also available at kiosks. There is a metro, but it does not provide service to tourist attractions or hotels. Taking public transport does require a map and a willingness to ask the locals for help — some stops are well marked and others display little if any information.
Privately owned minibuses service some of the cross-town routes and are faster but more expensive than regular buses. Pay the fare to the driver when you board.
Taxis are available at stands and larger intersections. You can call for a taxi, but the dispatchers rarely speak English. The fares are reasonable and visitors are sometimes overcharged — make sure the meter is running. Passengers are expected to know where they are going and often need to provide directions.
Forget driving in Sofia. The traffic is awful and the public transport and taxis will get you around town.
Sofia International Airport (SOF) (website: www.sofia-airport.bg). The airport is situated 10km (6 miles) east of Sofia.
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