If you’re considering a weekend skiing this winter then we recommend you book flights to Geneva and book a weekend in Val d’Isere. Val d’Isere, alongside Tignes, makes up the Espace Killy, one of the largest ski areas in France and named after one of their legendary downhill racers, Jean-Claude Killy, who made the town his own and helped develop the resort.
Arriving in Val d’Isere on Friday night after a two hour trip from Geneva, check into Le Blizzard hotel, a perfect place for couples looking to squirrel themselves away in their own little mountain love nest. The décor is modern mountain chalet meets retro kitsch but all tied up with lovely little traditional finishes, massive fireplaces and an outdoor hot-tub. The chances are you’ll arrive late so order a quick local speciality at the La Luge restaurant and maybe a whisky or two at the Lounge Bar before hitting the hay, after all Saturday is going to be a long day.
After breakfast at the hotel, and a quick walk to the nursery slopes to buy your ski pass, rent some skis start off on the L’Olympique cable car that runs above the Face, the much vaunted and often feared Olympic downhill ski run, don’t worry we’re not going to make you do it quite yet. At the top is what’s known as the ski tranquille area, somewhere you can find your edges again after a year’s absence from the slopes. Then when you feel ready head up to the Tommeuses chairlift and head up to the top of Toviere – from here there is a selection of runs to take skiers over the top to Tignes, either a gentle blue or a speedy red – whatever you’re ready for. Once you’ve hit the village head up the funiculaire railway that climbs up inside the mountain to the base of the Grande Motte glacier and the perfect place after a few runs to stop for a bite to eat at Le Panoramic. Sitting astride the lift station at the top of the Grande Motte the views are spectacular and on a warm sunny day it is wonderful for a slightly more leisurely lunch in the sun surrounded by the beauty of the mountains. The menu is a mixture of standard skiers fare (think spag bol and steak frites) as well as some great local Savoyarde specialities and local wine.
Then it’s time to tackle the descent and a return back to Val d’Isere for a little bit of après-ski. Prop up the bar at Dick’s Tea Bar with some of the powerful cocktails, but take it easy you’re going to be back a little later tonight – for the moment just a couple will do, then it’s back to the hotel for a well-earned siesta, a dip in the hot-tub and if you’re feeling extravagant then maybe a massage as well.
For dinner it must be the Perdrix Blanche – it might not be the smartest restaurant in town but it’s always buzzy, filled with locals, seasonaires and long time Val d’Isere returnees it has a French brasserie menu, oyster bar and strong drinks. Long and thin, the Perdrix has been a staple on the high street for many, many years and never seems to lose its edge. Afterwards, head on to Bananas where the chalet-girls go post-shifts to unwind and feign interest in the gnarly tales of dare-doing from long-haired snowboarders before returning to Dick’s Tea Bar for your late night boogie, where virtually legless skiers will be dragging their increasingly heavy boots around the dance floor.
Sunday morning will inevitably begin with a bit of a blur – after a 3am finish it’s always going to be tricky to summon up the will-power to hit the slopes with much enthusiasm. This morning, head to the nursery slopes and turn left taking the Solaise Express up to the top of the mountain for some wide pistes that seem to encourage effortless gliding at whatever pace seems to suit, perfect for clearing the hangover – one run and you’re clear, it’s a mountain fact. Stop for an early lunch at L’Edelweiss on the Mangard piste, an attractive chalet restaurant with remarkable views of the village, before slowly winding your way home to Val d’Isere.
