Ireland's capital city is vibrant, cosmopolitan and buzzy - a million miles from the depressed city of yesteryear. Young people used to leave Dublin in search of work, now cheap flights to Dublin bring young Europeans seeking work. What gives Dublin added oomph is the spirit of its people. It may now be a thrusting city of glass and steel, a favourite with business people, conference goers and tourists, but Dubliners - plain-speaking and friendly - keep their feet on the ground.
Dublin's streets are Georgian and elegant, its shopping districts (Grafton Street south of the Liffey and Henry Street on the north) bustling if pricey and its pubs (Davy Byrnes and Mulligans of Poolbeg Street are two of its best) cosy and welcoming.
The Irish have a deep respect for their past. The city's sights include the Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript of the Gospels, which dates from the 9th century, and can be viewed in Trinity College Library, the Chester Beatty Library, Christ Church Cathedral, Marsh's Library, Dublin Castle, the Parnell Museum, Kilmainham Gaol, Francis Bacon's studio and, of course, the Guinness brewery at St. James’s Gate where the black stuff has been produced for the past 249 years.
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Summers in Dublin are in the teens (Celsius), with about 18 hours of daylight in July and August. Winters are mild and wet with the temperature in the 10s and rarely going below freezing. Rain is typical, but there are occasional snow flurries. Although Dublin is in one of Ireland’s drier areas, it usually rains 150 days a year, sometimes for days on end.
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Peak Season:
Summer is Ireland’s peak tourist season. The mild weather, long summer days, and beautiful scenery are irresistible. It can be quite crowded on holidays, and during British and Irish school breaks. All summer, families and backpackers arrive exploring the countryside and coastal resorts. Prices in Dublin are higher in summer.
St. Patrick’s Day (March 17) is a very busy time. Make reservations and book Dublin flights as far in advance as possible.
Shoulder Season:
Autumn and spring are good times to visit Dublin. The seasonal hotels and restaurants open in the spring and usually do not close until November. There are often good deals on flights and accommodation to encourage tourism.
Off Season:
The off season is mid-November through mid-March or Easter. Prices are lower, but fewer attractions and restaurants are open. Many hotels have special Christmas packages, and some of the golf courses can be played in any weather.
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Several bus services, involving more than 700 buses, connect the airport to all parts of Dublin and the city's central train station both day and night. Taxis are available outside the arrivals hall, the fare is best agreed in advance.
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Whether you are walking, taking public transport or a cab, Dublin is easy to get around. The centre of the city is particularly good for walking, and you will probably get around better on foot than driving. The light rail service, LUAS (Gaelic for speed) offers two lines with easy access to the main sights and attractions. The bus network is extensive and has a limited Nitelink service. The rapid transit train (DART) connects the city centre with the suburbs and seaside communities.
Taxis are plentiful and reasonably priced. It’s best to call, but they can be hailed and they line-up at taxi stands. It is very difficult finding a taxi on weekends and late at night.
Dublin has traffic and parking problems, making driving in the city annoying and frustrating. Car rental is expensive, illegally parked cars are booted, and there is a high frequency of break-ins and thefts.
There are bicycle lanes throughout Dublin, but the traffic crush makes cycling hazardous. Bike theft is also a problem, and there are fewer bike rental shops because of insurance costs.
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- Dublin city is compact and the best way to see it is on foot. There are several walking tours available including a 1916 Rebellion Walking Tours, Dublin Literary Pub Crawl, Rock ‘n Stroll and Traditional Irish Musical Pub Crawl.
- The Phoenix Park is the largest urban enclosed park in Europe covering about 700 hectares (1,760 acres). It is just 3km (2 miles) west of the city centre and entrance is free. There are ornamental gardens, nature trails, lots and lots of grass and Áras an Uachtaráin, the President of Ireland’s residence, which is open to the public on Saturdays. The Phoenix Park Visitor Centre issues free admission tickets on the day.
- Take a tour around College Green, the Bank of Ireland’s largest branch. This is not as dull as it sounds. The impressive building opposite Trinity College was the Parliament of Independent Ireland before 1801 (and the Act of Union). Marvel at the architecture, guard in a tailcoat and top hat and coal fire in the lobby area – all free. There are also regular free concerts in the Arts Centre.
- Explore “old” Dublin. While visiting the Guinness Storehouse, wander around the Liberties and see St Patrick’s Cathedral and Marsh's Library (Ireland’s oldest public library), St Werburghs Church, Dublin Castle, the street markets on Thomas Street and Meath Street. Enjoy some fish and chips (cooked in lard not oil) from Burdock's.
- Witty Dubliners love to rhyme their public art. Look out for Molly Malone’s statue at the bottom of Grafton Street – the tart with the cart. The women at the Ha’penny Bridge are known as "the hags with the bags". The spire on O’Connell Street is known as "the stiletto in the ghetto", and the chimney stack with lift in Smithfield Village is often called "the flue with the view".
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