The most European city in South America - Buenos Aires - has been enjoying a revival in the last few years with the rise of hip new neighbourhoods and the inception of trendy hotels and restaurants. Luring visitors straight off their Buenos Aires flights with its grand avenues and magnificent architecture, the city rivals any other cosmopolitan city with its charm and sophistication.
The best way to really explore the city is on foot. Stroll through the cobbled streets and stop by Plaza de Mayo the most important spot in the city. It was here in 1810 where the May Revolution began and where the beloved Evita greeted the crowds from the balcony of the famous Casa Rosada.
Porteños (Buenos Aires residents) are passionate by nature, especially when it comes to their football and tango. La Bombonera stadium is where all the boisterous games take place and is home to Boca Juniors, the team that launched Diego Maradona’s career. To experience authentic tango head to San Telmo and walk in to one of its many Milongas (tango halls) that line the streets. Lessons are offered by professional Milongueros, or wait for a quick nod from another dancer – that’s the unspoken invitation for the next dance.
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The seasons in Argentina are the reverse of those in the Northern Hemisphere. Summers are humid and can be oppressively hot with January and February temperatures in the 30s (Celsius) and higher. Winters are mild and rainy, and June and July temperatures rarely going below freezing. Spring and autumn are in the 20s.
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Peak Season:
January is when many tourists take flights to Buenos Aires and many locals flock to the beach. Hotels must be booked in advance, but many restaurants and shops are closed or have limited hours.
The Chinese Lunar New Year is generally celebrated the first Sunday in February. Fiesta de las Murgas, the Buenos Aires version of Mardi Gras, is celebrated every weekend in February. In early March the International Tango Festival is in town, and the World Tango Festival arrives in October.
The Feria del Libro (Book Festival) is one of the world’s largest book festivals and runs from the end of April into May.
The world's biggest polo event, the Argentine Open Polo Championships, is held in late November and early December.
Off Season:
December weather is not yet too hot and this can be a pleasant time to visit.
Winter is chilly and wet, but June through August have fewer visitors.
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A number of private bus companies operate between the airport and central Buenos Aires; services are regular and take around 45 minutes. Public bus 86 is cheaper but can take longer than two hours to the city centre. Metered taxis are also available outside the terminal buildings, and chauffeured cars (remises) are available for hire on the lower level of both terminals.
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South America’s oldest subway, the subte, is still a quick, efficient, and cheap way to get around Buenos Aires. There is also a bus system, but unless you have an extended stay, the bus routes may be too complex to try to learn.
This is a great city for walking. The streets are attractive and pedestrian friendly, parks and plazas provide resting spots, and most of the centre is small enough to cover on foot.
There are lots of taxis, and the fares are reasonable. Radio taxis, remises, are safer than street taxis. Radio taxis have plastic light boxes on their roofs. When hailing a taxi keep in mind that they are supposed to stop only when the passenger-side door is facing the kerb. Not all the drivers know the city well, so have both an address and its cross street.
Between the subway and radio taxis, you do not need a car in Buenos Aires. If you decide to drive, keep in mind that the local drivers consider most driving rules to be incidental. Make sure to check on the rules that are followed and enforced. Another option is to hire a car and driver for the day.
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- Wander through one of Buenos Aires’ most important sites: the resting place of Eva Peron at the Recoleta Cemetery. The minute you walk into the grand gates of the cemetery you’ll realise that it’s not like any other you’ve ever visited. Stroll through the passageways where Argentina’s elite are buried, and explore the most ornate tombs you’ll ever see in your life; there’s even one that’s a mini replica of the Sagrada Familia.
- The heart and soul of tango is Buenos Aires, and whether you stop into a café or a professional dance hall, tango lessons are widely available. But if you’d rather just sit back and watch then head to one of the milongas and experience an authentic tango in motion.
- If you’re after a little something different to take home with you then you’re in the right place. Weekend markets are a favourite among visitors and the Feria de Mataderos in the Mataderos barrio is the most exceptional one. Another great place to visit is the Librería Alberto Casares where you can spend endless hours rummaging through the bookstore’s impressive collection of antique books and old maps.
- One of the things you’ll notice is the Argentines’ obsession with football. If there is a game going on while you’re there, book a seat in the platea section and watch the amusing fans sing, jump, and sometimes even fight.
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